Chicago's Original Chinatown

My blog was inactive while I worked a job over the summer and fall. This winter I'm pleased to be back to my research, writing and photography on the Chicago Neighborhoods Project.

As I walk around the city I'm always curious if what I'm reading as an official guide is the same as what I'm seeing in the architecture. While it's easy to edit out words from texts, the buildings still retain details of history, which have since been omitted from written accounts.

When I spot these irregularities I can research to find out the rest of the story.

Chicago's designated Chinatown, on the South Side, looks like a tourist destination to me. It was built with exaggerated architecture, drawing attention to itself, at a time when the Chinese in the USA were a target for extreme prejudice and even physical attacks. Asians are the only nationalities we've completely banned from entering the country. This creates a big question. Why would the new Chinatown purposely stand out?

After hunting around I came across a 1911 article in the Chicago Tribune which details the gentrification of Chicago's original Chinatown, located in downtown, and plans for a new Chinatown. In the original Chinatown people were trying to keep a low profile, as would be expected.

Below I explain what I found in the article.

Half a block is what's left of Chicago's original Chinatown

Link to the article here.

Be forewarned--it's racist and offensive in the descriptions of various ethnicities.

Chicago Tribune 1911

A reporter walks around what was the original Chinatown, in the south end of The Loop. The article was published on January 22, 1911. He describes the gentrification of Chinatown, as the business district is expanding. A skyscraper was expected to be built at Clark & Van Buren. The Chinese restaurants are being replaced by lunch counters catering to office workers.

The reporter describes Chinese men being forced to cut off their "pigtails". He also references the requirement of Chinese to be photographed and documented, like a Muslim registry would today.

He complains about the Chinese becoming Americanized and going into mainstream society. He laments the arrest of the gang leaders in the Tong Wars, rivalries over illicit activities like smuggling drugs, opium dens, prostitution and gambling, being pushed out of downtown.

(At this time the city was working on getting rid of vice too close to the business district. The entire vice district was being pushed south.)

He laments the lack of a tourist destination, similar to what has already been built in NYC and San Francisco. Chicago doesn't yet have the flashy California Crazy roadside vernacular architecture, which was luring auto tourists to other cities to visit their Chinatowns.

He hints a new Chinatown, designed for tourists, is being planned.

The original Chicago Chinatown was larger than 2 blocks on Clark Street. He describes an exclusive Chinese residential area on Federal, composed of a respectable hotel and brownstones.

Interestingly, he mentions a Bohemian enclave nearby, being frequented by Americans. I've read the term hipster comes from opium dens, because opium pipes are smoked while lying on your side. These white folks would bring the "bohemian lifestyle" into the mainstream.

Finally, as an aside, I'd never heard of Floaterville-by-the-tracks, the place where a community of people live on boats for the winter.

Conclusion

In conclusion, my assumption was correct. While the new Chinatown would become the center of the Chinese community in Chicago, it was built as a tourist destination for people traveling by car.


Article:
http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1911/01/22/page/61/article/fall-and-passing-of-chinatown-hing-kee-dinks-under-a-pall

Englewood

Jahmal Cole runs the group My Block, My Hood, My City (MBMHMC) to encourage Chicagoans to explore the different neighborhoods of the city. MBMHMC takes young people monthly to visit new areas. In April 2016 he started a series of walks to encourage the public to see places they might not otherwise visit. My husband and I joined “Explore Englewood”.

We boarded a southbound bus in our neighborhood of Hyde Park. In Woodlawn we transferred to the 63^rd Street bus going west to Englewood. The area wasn’t far from our home, but I’ve never been there. It’s somewhere I don’t generally feel comfortable walking on my own. Meeting a group did encourage us to make the trip.

Everyone gathered at St. Benedict the African-East Church. Tables were set up with information from neighborhood groups and maps with points of interest. Then everyone left on their own to explore and meet together later at a café for lunch. My husband and I began to wander the area.

As we walked Englewood I noticed all of the lots and lawns had been neatly mowed. In its glory days Englewood was a grand neighborhood filled with expensive mansions. In recent times, it has fallen on hard times. However, there are still people who obviously take pride and care for the area.

Upon closer inspection I began to notice that, unlike the North Side, few of the old homes were completely restored. Pieces of the houses were sometimes gone, such a missing spire from a turret, or more perplexing, a spire with a gap where the turret should be. We often saw deferred maintenance, missing or boarded architectural elements, and lots of siding.

I’d read an article in the South Side Weekly about how the housing market crash and subsequent foreclosures continues to devastate certain areas of the city. After Riverdale, the next highest vacancy rates are a cluster in Woodlawn, Englewood, and West Englewood. Even so, I wasn’t prepared for the overwhelming number of boarded homes and vacant lots.

I’d been to East Garfield Park, which experienced high rates of fires and looting during the April 1968 riots. Many buildings in that area of the West Side were burned and later removed, leaving numerous vacant lots.  Almost every business and factory left. Still, East Garfield Park seems more stable now than some areas of the South Side.

According to what little is remembered about the South Side, rioters in April 1968 marched along 63^rd Street from Woodlawn to Halsted in Englewood, once the second busiest shopping district in Chicago. It was the same route we’d followed on the bus. Later accounts claimed, because of stronger community leadership, the South Side April 1968 riots were quickly quelled and the communities didn’t suffer the same fate as the West Side.

Regardless, the resulting long term damage from the 1968 riots seems to be similar for both neighborhoods. There was a mass exodus of businesses and many buildings have been reduced to vacant lots in Englewood, just like East Garfield Park. Except the foreclosure crisis hasn’t deeply impacted many places as badly as here. Englewood continues to erode from both historical and recent crises.

The only complete blocks of well-maintained homes, without empty units, appeared to be the newer charity or public housing projects, at least where I walked. Otherwise, nearly everywhere was distressed. It was common to see people living in between boarded and vacant units. I would also see second stories occupied while the first floors were closed off. While sealing the lower levels of abandoned buildings was common, only some had the upper windows boarded.

Homes with people living in them had their curtains drawn and windows closed, despite the beautiful Saturday afternoon. No one seemed to feel it was safe to leave them open. Some of the boarded buildings had a window or two exposed, where the boards were removed. Reportedly they are used for illicit activities, like gangs, drugs or prostitution.

Most of the areas we walked were eerily quiet. With all of the green vacant lots it reminded me of being in the country. We heard lots of crickets. Despite the warmer weather kids weren’t playing out in the fields or parks. Almost no one was walking around. Residents stayed on their porches and kids were only allowed a few feet from their front doors. The playgrounds we passed were completely empty.

Later I was told a railroad company was buying a section of Englewood, tearing the buildings, to expand their railyards into the neighborhood. I suddenly wondered if that was the section we’d traveled? It would have explained a lot. After researching I found out we never saw the railroad expansion area.

We met back with MBMHMC at the Dream Café. Despite the continued distress in Englewood, there are people working to make improvements. New investments are happening, like the building of a Whole Foods grocery store. Local entrepreneurs have met with the store about marketing their products.

There are people who clean trash in front of vacant buildings and plant spring bulbs. I saw an active Little Free Library; which volunteers were keeping stocked with giveaway books. I saw a planter of flowers placed out by the road to enliven the entire street. Residents are fighting to restore their neighborhood.

We enjoyed lunch. My husband tried the jerk chicken and rice, while I couldn’t resist sampling chicken and macaroni and cheese. The pasta had some extra peppers and spices. Afterwards, we walked over to the Aldi grocery store. My husband wanted to see it, as he’s read a lot about how the store significantly undersells Wal-Mart. They’ve brought affordable groceries to food deserts, particularly on the South Side.

I didn’t have a quarter with me to unlock the grocery cart. Aldi gets customers to return carts by charging a deposit. They operate on almost no staff and limited selections of only a brand or two for each item, which lowers their costs. Inside we found the store clean and well lit. Cashiers were extremely fast. We managed to grab a couple bags worth of food and the cashier graciously lent us a cart to bag them.

I’ve seen the location of the H. H. Holmes “Murder Castle” (of Devil in the White City fame) listed as the Aldi store in Englewood. Others cite it being across the street, where the post office is now located. Not surprisingly, the post office is rumored to be haunted. That’s where we caught the bus home.

Uptown

In mid-April my husband and I decided to visit Uptown. We’d read about some vintage shopping in the area. The beautiful weather had warmed to the 60s, after a chilly spring and some late season snowfalls.

We randomly chose the Argyle stop to exit the red line L train. I didn’t realize it was “Asia on Argyle” with a cluster of Asian restaurants and groceries. It’s as large as some entire Chinatown neighborhoods in other cities.

The population was diverse. Everywhere we traveled in the neighborhood we saw families, and groups of people, out enjoying the spring sunshine. Every block had people walking.

Broadway is the main commercial strip. I picked a Chinese dim sum restaurant for lunch. It was similar to a classic cafeteria, except the food was rolled on carts from table to table, instead of a buffet line. The waiter realized it was our first visit. He offered explanations about what was on the plates.

The waiter suggested a delicious sticky rice, with a meat center, steamed in Lotus leaves. We sampled several dishes. I particularly liked the pork dumplings. However, I don’t think I’ve had a dumpling I’ve ever truly disliked.

After lunch we walked over to the lake. I noticed some older buildings remain in the neighborhood, while others have been replaced with high rises, particularly from the 1960s and 70s, closer to the water. It seemed like an area of urban renewal projects, although the Encyclopedia of Chicago notes that the residents worked hard to avoid widespread displacement like Hyde Park.

We walked under a freeway bridge. One side of the underpass was lined with a tent city of homeless who lived permanently under the bridge. I’d read the city is supposed to be working on finding homes for people living in tent encampments around the city. The need for low income housing far exceeds supply in Chicago. This is particularly true because so many of the SRO hotels in the city have been demolished or converted to other uses.

Encyclopedia of Chicago describes Uptown as a former entertainment district for the city. The SRO hotels, which used to be clustered in the neighborhood, would have served singles and young couples, wanting an urban lifestyle instead of maintaining a house, similar to the micro-apartment concept today. (SRO hotels were more carefree, as they didn’t have kitchens and might include housekeeping.) Later the SRO hotels were used by migrant workers and as cheap housing to prevent homelessness.

Walking the neighborhood, we noticed a concentration of social services I don’t tend to see in other areas. We noticed housing for substance abuse services, the ill, and elderly. Walking past a doorway of an apartment building I saw plants which had been ripped out of their decorative pots. Dirt was scattered across the steps. Even in some of the roughest areas of the city I haven’t observed destruction of landscaping.

When we reached the lake the parks, trails and ball fields were full. A couple games of girls’ soccer were in progress. I watched a father teach a young boy how to fly a kite while pushing a baby along in a stroller, a group of preteen boys fishing, a couple strolling hand-in-hand along the rocks, small groups sitting on blankets, and a line waiting for food from the taco truck. Summer was in full swing.

Walking back through the neighborhood to the train we stopped at an Asian grocery. Like so many ethnic markets around the city they had great prices. I stocked up on 3 varieties of noodles, tea, and frozen pre-made pot stickers.

Until now I’ve resisted the notion of Chicago fusion cooking. I will look at a menu and think, “Those foods should not live together on the same plate.” I decided to take the plunge. I cooked Canton style eggs noodles from the market. I then added spaghetti sauce with onions, peppers, kielbasa and ham. It was strangely good. The noodles were light and brought out the flavors of the sauce. We ate the leftovers immediately.

I wouldn’t make the long cross town trip to eat at some of Chicago’s more authentic restaurants in the neighborhoods regularly. I’m glad I’ve done it once, but really, I tend to prefer “Americanized” versions of the foods closer to home anyway. I like the thin crust pizza I’ve had in South Loop better than what I tried at a liquor store in Albany Park, for example.  

At the same time, the small groceries are a different matter. Some neighborhoods have unique and inexpensive foods I can’t seem to find anywhere closer to our apartment. While the French and Maxwell Street Markets are a good start, too bad Chicago doesn’t have a giant public market once a week for shopping from small vendors across the city.

VIDEO: West Ridge

Link to video of photos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaFLX2JnE6Y&feature=youtu.be

West Ridge

In early April my husband, daughter and I decided to try a new food. My husband had been suggesting Middle Eastern for a while, although we never seemed to get around to eating it, despite a couple of decent restaurants near our home. After an online search we agreed to try something foreign to us—Shawarma cooking. We found some good restaurant reviews in West Ridge.

From downtown we took the brown line L train to the Western stop, then hopped a bus north. We arrived at an Assyrian Shawarma hole-in-the-wall restaurant, not quite in the neighborhood. We agreed to check it out, and if it didn’t appeal, we would find another among several options in West Ridge. The place was modest but the food looked good. The meat was slowly roasted on a spit, similar to Greek gyros. Our meals turned out to be delicious and plentiful.

I wouldn’t travel across town for a Shawarma meal again. However, if it was available in my own neighborhood, I would eat it on a regular basis. The unique foods are what makes so many of the individual neighborhoods of the city special.

After lunch we walked along Highway 41 before turning north into the residential areas. I was surprised to see some old motor court motels, like those typically found along old Route 66 across the country. In Chicago there’s not much left of the Mother Road. I was happy to find “Route 66” style architecture elsewhere in the city.

The Encyclopedia of Chicago notes West Ridge experienced a building boom from World War I through the 1960s. We found a diversity of architectural styles, from typical Chicago brick bungalows, a few with whimsical details, to unusual mid-century modern two-flats.

We walked until we reached Devon, the main business district street. The stores were quite diverse. Area residents included Indians, Pakistanis, Koreans, Middle Easterners, Bangladeshi, Russians, Assyrians, decedents of Germans and Irish, and the Midwest’s largest community of Hasidic Jews.

Unlike Albany Park, the different ethnic groups seemed comfortable comingling with each other. It was common to see bakeries with a mix of offerings or store signs in a variety of languages. My only complaint were the bagels we bought, which turned out to be more like bread rolls with a hole in the center, rather than the boiled dough goodness I’ve come to expect. We used them as sandwich buns.

The commercial district was thriving with a wide range of restaurants and types of local businesses. I got the sense the area is stable and not experiencing the pressures of either displacement, or abandonment, so common in the rest of the city.

We bought bakery breads, then explored a Middle Eastern market. I always like to look through the grocery shelves, trying to guess the items labeled in other languages. Like so many small ethnic markets around the city we found plenty of inexpensive items. We loaded up on boxes of tea and dry lentils.

In addition, I treated myself to a set of double metal tea kettles. I’d noticed them in some other Middle Eastern stores around town. Water is boiled in the larger bottom kettle, while the smaller top kettle heats. Then the smaller kettle is used as a pre-heated tea pot. They had several models, so I asked which they would recommend. The proprietor explained she preferred the set where the two kettles, large and small, could be used separately, and the top one included a fitted tea strainer. So far, I’ve used them daily with great results.

VIDEO: Albany Park Photos

Link:
https://youtu.be/N2N-PNokE-o

Albany Park

There is something satisfying about riding a train to the end of the line. During the first weekend of April my husband and I took the Kimball brown line L train to the last stop, Kimball, in Albany Park. It was a Saturday with mild weather.

I purposely didn’t research much about the area before we left. Ever since my visit to East Garfield Park I’ve been wary about reading potentially biased information online, which might change how I experience the neighborhood.

When we exited the train station we walked into the middle of chanting protesters holding signs. I figured we must have arrived at the hub of activity for the neighborhood. Protesters tend to congregate where the most people will see them. We glanced up and down Lawrence Ave., the main business street. We saw a bunch of stores off to the left, so we decided to walk west from the train station.

I’d just read about the recently defeated Alderman complaining the area was being overrun by hipsters and yuppies. Looking around my husband commented that the hipsters must not have gotten the memo. If anything, the street looked like the Land That Time Forgot, circa 1980. It was a preserved street of pre-gentrification gritty inner city.

I was reminded of New York City, when Times Square was still full of peep shows and questionable electronics stores. It made me strangely nostalgic for the NYC I remembered as an art student at Pratt in the late 1980s.

West of the train station Lawrence was lined with an abundance of quaint businesses, like lots of travel agencies, shoddy imported foreign goods, and even a photo store. I haven’t seen a business specifically for processing photographs in years. I was also reminded of why modern efficient corporations, such as Walmart, are popular instead of some of the seedier retailers. It’s easy to be too nostalgic for the old days.

As we walked farther we noticed a restored theater. Across the façade was a quotation about freedom. As we got closer we could read the attribution… Larry Flynt, the famous pornographer. Later we would find out that the Admiral, and surrounding businesses, were a magnate for travelers going through O’Hare airport. However, the adult theater had recently won a good neighbor award for its exemplary civic participation.

If we had wanted to find the changing parts of the neighborhood, with the hipsters and yuppies, we should have gone east and south from the train station. That area was filling with trendy ethnic restaurants and coffee shops.

At one time Albany Park was Chicago’s Koreatown. There were still a number of signs lettered in Korean, although I saw a lot of vacant store fronts. The area is one of the most ethnically diverse in the country. I sensed an uneasy truce among the different nationalities. I was amazed at how many “we call police” and home security signs we saw in front of residences.

Along Lawrence were a wide range of hole-in-the-wall restaurants. I’m not picky, but none tempted us. Finally, we decided to seek out a well rated spot for thin crust pizza. To reach the dining room we first walked through the take out package liquor store, past the length of the bar, to the dimly lit back.

Like most of the other businesses, it was a throwback to an earlier time. The décor was red vinyl booths, floor length mirrors on wood paneling, with accent rock walls. The menu boasted the last time it was remodeled was the late 1970s. The only recent update I could find was an electronic jukebox, which could be accessed through a mobile app and took credit cards. The thin crust pizza was good, although we prefer options in the South Loop.

So far the restaurant is the only place in the north where I’ve seen White Sox games broadcast instead of the Cubs. We had the dining room to ourselves. Only bar flies sat in front along the stools. The waitress said their regular diners were out with their families for Easter weekend. Our own daughter was away on a trip to Germany, so I was fine with skipping the family-oriented celebrations.

After lunch we walked mostly in the North Mayfair district of historic brick bungalows. We were surprised to find ourselves at the southern edge of a large forest preserve, which continues north and into the suburbs. As we strolled I noticed a section of the bungalows had unique stain glass windows. None appeared to be standard. They changed from house to house.

When we started getting tired of walking I thought I’d found a trail back to the edge of the forest preserve, where we could catch a bus to the train station. When we arrived it turned out to be a section of abandoned elevated train tracks instead. I wondered if it would be turned into a multi-use trail in the future, like the 606. Seems like Albany Park is one more area of the city headed for changes.