Saturday, January 23, 2016

Woodlawn


Mid-January my husband and I decided to walk from our Hyde Park home to the neighborhood just south of us—Woodlawn. Temperatures during the past fall had been unseasonably warm. This morning’s freezing drizzle was preferable to the arctic winter blast everyone promised would soon arrive.

We headed along the lake to Jackson Park. Not long after we first moved to Chicago Wooded Island, in the center of the park, was closed and fenced off for restoration. The Island features the Osaka Japanese Garden, constructed for the White City at the 1893 World’s Fair. A newspaper article promised the closed portion of the park would be available for a Saturday tour.

Despite all of the construction equipment I was surprised by the beautiful colors in the Bobolink Meadow in the park. Walking along the trail it was easy to forget we were in the middle of the city. We spent a while meandering along the trails. Too long, it turned out.

The rain increased as we finally reached the south gate entrance to Wooded Island. I thought we’d have another half hour for a self-guided tour. Instead, the gate was locked and cars were pulling out of the parking lot. Since we’d already walked this far we continued on our journey. We passed empty boat harbors. The golden statue of The Republic, a replica from the White City, glistened in the rain.

Heading back north along the western edge of Jackson Park we saw the old Hyde Park High School for the first time. I’ve heard local South Siders talk about attending school there. The building, like so many in the area, is a faded reminder of when the neighborhood used to cater to the city’s wealthier residents.

We reached the northern boundary of Woodlawn at a strip of park known as the Midway Plaisance. Another leftover from the World’s Fair, it once contained cheap thrills pushed to outside of the serious White City, such as amusement rides. The term “midway” is still used at modern fairs.

Wandering into the residential area of Woodlawn we stumbled into the end of the 61st Street Farmers Market at Experimental Station. Originally I had planned to walk across Woodlawn to one of the oldest restaurants in the city, except we were wet and the temperature was dropping. We warmed up inside. While most of the vendors were already packing up I still found amazing fresh cinnamon swirl bread, poppy pastries, and the most delicious giant oatmeal cookies with chocolate filling to take home.


Once back outside we toured a bit more of the residences and the southern end of the University of Chicago campus. Soon the rain turned to heavy snow flakes. Already soaked from the morning walk it was time to head home.
















Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Ukrainian Village, West Town



In choosing which area of the West Town community area to visit I decided to skip the trendy Wicker Park neighborhood for the lessor known Ukrainian Village. At one time the village was a stop on the “L” (elevated train), but the line was discontinued in the 1960s. The primary mass transit link now is by bus.

I prefer to avoid bus rides to unknown neighborhoods. In fact, I’ll walk a mile or more from a train stop. Navigating fixed railroad tracks with only a few stops is easier than complex bus routes which randomly change for traffic conditions or special events.

However, I knew I had a lot of neighborhoods ahead of me which can’t be reached by subway or commuter train lines. It was time to get serious about using the transit app on my phone.

We rode the Metra Electric District train from Hyde Park to its termination point at Millennium Station downtown. Deciding to stretch our legs we walked north on Michigan Avenue, along the upscale shopping of The Magnificent Mile, to the Water Tower. From there we caught the #66 bus along Chicago Avenue to Ukrainian Village.

Using the transit app worked fine. I appreciated the tracking feature, which showed us where we were in relation to the stop we needed. I’d chosen a coffee shop for lunch. I’ve learned my family is more tolerant of walking neighborhoods if I feed them early in the trip.

I did not know Ukrainian style pierogis was a thing. I’m familiar with the larger Polish version, often simple in ingredients and pan fried in butter. I happily ate the smaller boiled Ukrainian pierogis with mushroom, potato and tarragon filling in a creamy Dijon sauce. Delicious. My only regret was failing to remember to request fried onion and bacon toppings.

I’ve learned to travel to interesting neighborhoods with an insulated grocery bag. Small ethnic markets offer a variety of food choices, usually at cheaper prices. We wondered the aisles of a Ukrainian grocery store trying to guess foods that didn’t have English translations.

Not paying close attention I came home with a seasoning packet I guess to be for beef stroganoff. I will have to try to follow the pictures to use it. A large bag of soup seasoning, with English translation, was only $3. A loaf of freshly baked rye bread $1.50. I chose a cheese from the deli counter I couldn’t pronounce, along with frozen pierogis and Russian pork dumplings. All the cold foods made the long trip home safely in the insulated bag.
















Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Bridgeport


As the winter holidays approached I realized my family needed to find some new traditions for our first Christmas in Chicago. I didn’t want to cook. Hassling with the rest of the family over making dinner didn’t seem like much fun either. And after many years of hosting Christmas parties at our previous home I didn’t want to socialize.

I finally hit upon the idea of buying bakery goods to eat. I searched online through reviews of different neighborhoods. Since I needed to cover both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day I wanted to find somewhere with a range of food options. Bridgeport seemed the most promising.

Describing the neighborhood as a "port" seems accurate, as the area is a crossroads of cultures. Originally settled by enclaves of European immigrants, it continues to attract blue collar Mexicans and Chinese. Restaurants in the neighborhood reflect the broad range of ethnic communities past and present.

Planning ahead I found some of the bakeries would be closed on Christmas Eve and others would only be available for pickups. I placed our order for steak and ale pies from a highly rated British shop. When we arrived at midday I was able to add a side of Scotch eggs. They also had saffron and currant St. Lucia buns we ate for Christmas breakfast. Everything was delicious.

After retrieving our order, we started walking the neighborhood. I originally had the idea we would round the entire place and end up on the northern side, then head to Chinatown for lunch. I was far too ambitious. Instead, we landed midway at a local family diner.

Since moving to Chicago I’ve had a fascination with monte cristo sandwiches. I don’t recall ever eating them previously. They feature ham and cheese grilled between French bread. Some restaurants will add extra bread in the middle, top with powdered sugar, or even serve with syrup. This sandwich was basic and heavy on the ham instead of the bread. Still quite enjoyable.

Afterwards, we still needed Christmas dinner. Searching we found gigantic chocolate chip cookies with chocolate chunks the size of miniature candy bars, but still no meal. Finally, we happened upon an open panaderia—Mexican bakery. I inspected the cases of baked goods like empanadas and bolillos. No luck.


Before leaving I approached the counter in the back. Behind the server I noticed a stack of corn husks. Could it be? 

I asked if they had tamales I could buy. She replied they had both red and green in chicken and pork, which were ridiculously inexpensive. Coming from Albuquerque chicken tamales seem wrong. I couldn’t do it. We got the pork. We were delighted to have fresh tamales for Christmas dinner. My only regret is we didn’t buy more dozens to freeze at home.